When people talk about Piedmont, everyone thinks of the great reds. Barolo, Barbaresco, Nebbiolo. Right. But on the highest hills of the Langhe, a sparkling wine is born that is conquering the world without making too much noise, and I am a declared fan: Alta Langa DOCG.

What it is, in a nutshell

It is a traditional method sparkling wine, made only with Pinot Nero and Chardonnay, like Champagne. The vines are located at least 250 meters above sea level, in the provinces of Cuneo, Asti, and Alessandria. It is always vintage-dated, so it carries the year on the label, and rests for at least 30 months on the lees. The result is very fine bubbles, vibrant acidity, and those aromas of toasted bread, white fruit, and citrus that make you reach for the second glass.

Young in name, ancient in fact

The appellation is recent: DOC in 2002, DOCG in 2011. But the roots are from the 19th century. In the mid-1800s, Carlo Gancia returns from France with the champenois method in mind and starts making sparkling wines right around here. And then there are the "underground cathedrals" of Canelli, cellars carved into tuff and now a UNESCO heritage site. Entering them is like being in a Gothic church, except instead of prayers, you hear the wine resting.

Why it isn't "Italian Champagne"

Because it has its own character. It is more vertical, more mineral, with a freshness that comes from the high hills. A bit reserved, very elegant. And it makes me smile that many historic producers of Barolo and Barbaresco have decided to make it: it's like seeing the kings of reds dress up for a grand gala.

How I drink it

With crustaceans, oysters, and delicate fish, of course. But try it with an egg with white truffle: a marriage worthy of a standing ovation. It works with creamy risottos, fried seafood, sushi, even with a good Margherita pizza. It is a smart wine: it makes you look good without effort.

Come and taste it. Here you will find Alta Langa by Giribaldi, by the glass with Coravin. Coravin Wine Bar, Via Carlo Maderno 23, Lugano. Cheers!