If I had to choose just one white wine for a summer lunch by the lake or the sea, I would choose him. Vermentino is one of those wines that puts you in a good mood just from the aroma. It loves the sun, loves the wind, and above all, loves being near the sea.

Where it comes from

Its origins are ancient and still debated. It is often said to come from the Western Mediterranean, from Spain, but scholars are not all in agreement. What is certain is that today it is at home in three Italian regions: Liguria, Tuscany, and Sardinia.

Where it shines

The queen is Sardinia, and in particular Gallura, where Vermentino di Gallura DOCG is born, the only appellation of this level dedicated to it. Granite soils, the maestrale wind blowing, and the sea just steps away give it savoriness and a unique freshness. In Liguria, it becomes more floral; in Tuscany, broader and more savory. Same grape, three different accents: that's the beauty of wine.

In the glass

Straw yellow with greenish reflections. On the nose, white peach, citrus like lime and grapefruit, wildflowers, and then that Mediterranean scrub, rosemary and sage, with a saline note that takes you back to the beach. On the palate, it is fresh and savory, and often closes with a slight bitter almond note. That is its signature: once you recognize it, you can't mistake Vermentino anymore.

What to drink it with

It is one of the most versatile whites I know. Raw fish, oysters, spaghetti alle vongole, sea bream, sea bass, squid. But also pasta al pesto, grilled vegetables, fresh cheeses. It works perfectly as an aperitif and holds up throughout the meal. Serve it cool, not ice-cold, otherwise you kill those very aromas that make it special.

Come and taste it. A glass of Vermentino on the terrace is the right start to any summer evening. Coravin Wine Bar, Via Carlo Maderno 23, Lugano. Cheers!